I woke up this morning with a start. Sun shining into my apartment, "I'm late!" was my first thought. But I soon realized that we had not slept through the alarm clock, it was just a rare sunny morning in San Francisco. If you live here, you will understand: It has been cloudy in the morning for weeks on end, making waking up in the morning a daunting prospect. Jason has been taking the early train, and yours truly has been dropping him off faithfully at 7.00 in the morning. After a fun trip to the Department of Parking and Traffic to renew my parking permit, I decided that it was a good morning for a breakfast outing ... it was early enough to not cut into my work schedule, the weather out was amazing, and I was hungry!
The first thought in my mind was Desiree, a small restaurant in the Film Centre building of San Francisco's Presidio that serves up one of the best breakfasts in town. Driving cross-town through traffic, I was kicking myself for not being happy just popping into the dozens of places that would have been faster and closer to my location. As soon as I walked in the door, however, those thoughts disippated.
A restaurant that you only find if you are looking for it, Desiree was started by local chef Annie Gingrass once she left a position at a popular high-end restaurant here. This is a restaurant that epitomizes a seasonally-based menu, and an execution of dishes that relies completely on the integrity of the ingredients. This morning was a typical summer menu with offerings of granola with fresh fruit, scrambled egg dishes, Niman Ranch bacon, various baked goods, and an egg sandwich. I chose the "soft scramble" with tender broccoli florets, goat cheese, herbs, and halved cherry tomatoes. The eggs weren't cooked a second longer than necessary and arrived at my table with a side of potatoes and toast. The potatoes were remarkable ... they didn't look like much, but were cooked with herbs and a liberal sprinkling of pepper that made me wish for more after my plate had been cleaned. The egg dish was perfectly balanced ... the sweet tomatoes providing a wonderful counterpoint to the salty cheese and the herbs rounding out the entire dish.
One of my favorite meals at Desiree is a to-go lunch that is pre-made in a box with a sandwich, salad and cookies. This is no ordinary lunch box -- outstanding fish sandwiches, egg salad, and other delights. On a sunny day, pick up a lunch box and go out to Crissy Field for nirvana San Francisco style.
Their baked goods are a single reason that many people in town go to Desiree, and a friend recently told me of the race that occurs for the baked goods in the late morning -- there is a precious amount of time between when the baker brings up the baked goods and when the favorite ones disappear. If you miss the magic time (it varies), you don't get the goods.
Desiree has changed somewhat in the past six months or so ... it has expanded, and probably seats double the amount of customers, there is now a sign outside telling newbies that they should order first and then sit, and there is a refrigerator of to-go items. In my curmudgeonly moments, these are all things that make me suspiscious -- can they still provide the same product? The answer with Desiree is a resounding yes.
All of this ... the elusive location, the short hours (8-4, weekdays only), the mystery baked goods, provide seemingly annoying obstacles in the quest for the great breakfast or lunch. But trust me on this -- just go with the flow and get yourself there. You won't regret it, and you will quickly understand the popularity of one of our local treasures.
Desiree Cafe
in the San Francisco Film Centre
39 Mesa Street
San Francisco
(415) 561-2336
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